Eating Through Culture: My Culinary Notes from Singkawang

For 17 years lived in Pontianak, West Borneo, travelling to nearby cities like Singkawang was a common activity for me. It takes around 3 hours by car from Pontianak, making Singkawang a frequent one-day trip destination. Unfortunately, I didn’t have many memories of Singkawang’s local culinary scene, which left me knowing almost nothing about it when my friends from other cities visited for business trip. Therefore, during a long holiday this year, I decided to revisit Singkawang with my extended family and explore more authentic local cuisines.

“I Love Singkawang“ city signage
As soon as arrived at Singkawang, I had lunch at Bakso Sapi 68, a famous meatball spot that appeared in the film Aruna dan Lidahnya. Back then, the restaurant didn’t have halal certification yet, so I never tried it. Alhamdulillah, it is now halal-certified, and I could finally enjoy it without worrying whether it was halal or not.

authentic Chinese-style layout
I ordered the signature menu, Mie Bakso Spesial 68 (Rp46.000 for regular size and Rp44.000 for small). It is a noodle dish served with meatballs, stuffed tofu, shrimps, beef slices, and fried egg. The taste was amazing! The umami broth paired well with the noodles and topping. I recommend dining onsite, as the restaurant features an authentic Chinese-style layout.

Mie Bakso Spesial 68
At night, I visited Pasar Hongkong, the well-known night market, and chilled at Kopi Rusen, a popular kopitiam in the city. The old building and its strategic location, right beside the “I Love Singkawang“ city signage, make it a lively meeting point. The coffee itself felt like a typical kopitiam brew, but the ambiance stood out, young people gathering and enjoying the night with a direct view of Tri Dharma Bumi Raya Temple

View from Kopitiam Rusen
The next day, before heading back to Pontianak, I had breakfast at Bubur Pekong, located near Pasar Hongkong and Tri Dharma Bumi Raya Temple. Bubur Pekong is meat broth porridge commonly found in West Borneo. Not only the taste brings customer back, the surroundings are also visually appealing, with a combination of temple views and mural art among the shophouses, reminding me of  Singapore’s urban murals.

Bubur Pekong

mural art among the shophouses
The last culinary stop was Choipan Marga Tjhia. Choipan (Hakka) or Chaikue (Teochew) is dumpling made from a thin, slightly translucent rice-flour skin filled with vegetables such as jicama, chives, bamboo shoots, or taro. When eating it, don’t forget to dip it into chili sauce to enhance the flavour. 
Choipan or Chaikue
Hunting for Singkawang’s local culinary delights in a short time was quite interesting for me. Despite the limited destinations, the ambiance, taste and affordable prices were strong enough to make me want to come back again. See you next time!

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